Today I am pondering
the fact that so many people in this country go through life without even the
most rudimentary understanding of the life cycle of the foods they eat. There
seems to be a huge disconnect for most people between what they see on their
plate and the greenly growing creatures in the world around them. This is one
of the reasons why I love living in a rural community, because people in my
hometown are connected. They all have gardens, if not farms. I try to imagine
what it might be like to be unable to recognize an apple tree in blossom or to
have no idea when cherries are actually in season. I had someone ask me the
other day what kind of tomatoes I grow. What a ridiculous question. I grow
about a dozen different heirloom varieties and the selection changes from one
year to the next. Some people can think of only one or two kinds of tomatoes.
Some people have never seen a dramatic green Zebra tomato, a brilliant yellow Sungold,
or a deep purple-red Paul Robeson tomato.
The most
mystifying thing to me of all is how people can live without growing at least
some of the things they eat. Even if they only have a tiny patch of ground or a
deck big enough to hold only a few pots. How can people pass up the opportunity
to grow their own food?
When I was
a teenager, my family visited my cousins in France. They had an apartment in
Paris and a little country home on about three acres of land an hour’s drive
from Paris in a town called Maule. We drove to Maule and spent the afternoon
with them. They proudly took us on a tour of their abundant orchards. At one
point Cousin Joseph turned to my father and asked him how much property we
owned in our suburban town in the U.S. Dad replied that he had about a quarter
of an acre. So Joseph asked, “And what do you grow on it?” Dad replied that we
didn’t grow anything on it. Joseph’s question always stayed with me. The truth
was that mostly Dad grew a lawn on it. You can’t eat a lawn. Although that’s the
standard crop of suburbia. In the summer my mother would till a little
vegetable patch and grow tomatoes and green beans. In retrospect, I think her
little vegetable patch may have been what inspired me to a lifelong love of
gardening. I clearly remember grazing on her green beans while standing
barefoot in the dirt. Nothing in the world tastes better.
My half-acre
yard is bursting at the seams with food. Vegetables, fruit trees and vines,
herbs. Also the flowers! In the summer I grow three varieties of apple, both
white flesh and yellow flesh peaches, Santa Rosa plums, cherries (they are ripe
in June, by the way), strawberries (I am just finishing up the ones in the
freezer from last year and there are now flowers on this year’s first crop),
raspberries, blueberries. This time of year I have collards and asparagus.
Oregano, thyme, tarragon, peppermint, and spearmint grow pretty much year-round.
This
weekend, with the unseasonably warm weather, I confess that I’m being lured
into planting early; despite the fact that we are nowhere near clear of a killing
frost. I am exercising restraint, but gosh it’s difficult. I am already
salivating thinking about my summer squashes (zucchini and patty pan),
eggplant, tomatoes, basil, and lemon cucumbers. For me, summer arrives for real
when I bite into the first homegrown tomato, round about the end of June or first of July. I pity those people
who have no idea what that experience is like, who buy hothouse-grown tomatoes
year-round at the grocery store, and would not be able to recognize a tomato
plant if it was growing in their kitchen sink. Homegrown food reminds me of
life’s bounty and cancels out all the evil in the world in one mouthful.
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